[Roy]

 Fletch,

Yes they know exactly how many times your car has been launched.

 

And they "apparently" can tell how you drive your car in general as I was told by the technician who was out in my car a few months back.

 

Its all logged down by something technical somewhere on the car in a memory thingy ....... somewhere ,,,,,somehow !!!

[mrAudi]

Unless like mine the entire ECU was wiped clean & re-programmed before sale

[MikeYoung]

Uprate them bolts.... Found something else, according to this there is an uprated prop fitted from 2014? http://www.ttforum.c...932474#p4932474 go for it....

[Roy]

 Toby, why you keep stating the obvious. Fletch aint selling his is he !!!!?

[Viraje]

A question?

Why are people blaming the prop shaft bolts ?

Has the prop shaft actually snapped any bolts ?

Have a good look at these pictures and the link to the TTRS pictures


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Paul posted the exploded rear diff picture purely to illustrate potentially what could happen if the propshaft bolts don't give out, (for example if they've been uprated), and the next weakest link is found.

 

In many cases, (on both mapped and non-mapped TTRS/RS3 car, as well as lesser models), it's the propshaft bolts that have snapped between the rear coupling and the Haldex input plate. Looking at the exploded diagram, it looks like there is in fact a locating pin in the centre of this input plate, but clearly isn't designed to prevent the propshaft flailing about in the event of the bolts snapping. Which is a shame!

[Roy]

So if we replace the bolts with stronger ones then something more expensive might get damaged causing even more heartache ????

 

Bloody hell !

[Viraje]

I am going to arrange with CF recovery to pick the car up and have it taken to the Audi specialist i will find out exactly what is on the report at Audi and i will let you all know ASAP.

TBH gents i am not very well and havent even thought about the car today.

From what i was told there is a braket on the diff that the prop shaft if bolted on to, apparently on my car the bolts are snapped in the diff as they need to be removed if they cannot be then i need a new diff. (Im not very clued up on cars so if i am wrong dont shoot me)

 

Which specialist did you plum for, out of curiosity?

 

The bolts have sheared in the Haldex input shaft. Anyone with a Halfords stud extractor kit can remove those, so this won't be an issue for a decent specialist. At no point would the rear diff need changing unless Audi are referring to the Haldex 'diff', (it's not actually a diff in the true sense). If the bolts have sheared, then hopefully the threads in the Haldex are ok, and you're just looking at new bolts and the coupling that's been chewed up on your motor.

[Uncle Fester]

On this diagram its referred to as a Haldex coupling which by the looks of it is a separate part from the diff

 

 

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26%

 

 

 

# Number Description Qty.     final drive, complete; rear; code letter:; MBE   1 0BY525010A final drive; code:; MBE 1 1A G 052145S2 axle oil; for rear axle differential; filling quantity:; 1.0 ltr.; 950ML X 1A G 055175A2 high-performance oil for; haldex coupling; filling quantity:; 1.0 ltr.; 720ML 1 2 0BY525554 haldex coupling 1 3 N 90443301 o-ring; 130X3 1 4 N 91030602 hexagon bolt; M10X70 4 5 1K0599437 bonded rubber bush; lower rear 2 6 1K0599438 bonded rubber bush; upper rear 2 6A 1K0599437 bonded rubber bush; lower front 1 7 1K0599438 bonded rubber bush; upper front 1 8 02W525118 elbow fitting 2 11 02D525095H vent hose; contains additional positions:; 210MM; 12 2

[Viraje]

It's basically a hydraulically controlled clutch, controlled by an ECU. And yes, a separate unit to the rear diff.

[FletchRS3]

Which specialist did you plum for, out of curiosity?
 
The bolts have sheared in the Haldex input shaft. Anyone with a Halfords stud extractor kit can remove those, so this won't be an issue for a decent specialist. At no point would the rear diff need changing unless Audi are referring to the Haldex 'diff', (it's not actually a diff in the true sense). If the bolts have sheared, then hopefully the threads in the Haldex are ok, and you're just looking at new bolts and the coupling that's been chewed up on your motor.

This is the specialist

http://www.swiftmotorengineering.co.uk

[P_G]

Ah, near Alloyfix? Haven't used them but seem to have a decent reputation.

[FletchRS3]

Ah, near Alloyfix? Haven't used them but seem to have a decent reputation.

The lad barry who owns it worked for Audi for a long long time i think he served his time there as well.

He done work on my S3 and still does work on my mothers EOS and as you say has a good reputation.

[Paul]

Paul posted the exploded rear diff picture purely to illustrate potentially what could happen if the propshaft bolts don't give out, (for example if they've been uprated), and the next weakest link is found.
 

Exactly Viraje. Thank you.
No confusion intended.

[Jmcnamee98]

Fletch truly sorry to hear about your car.

I had O/S CV joint drive shaft and transmission unit failure recently in Germany. Luckily all quickly replaced under Warranty (Language barrier helped) invoice to Audi was £2500. I have contact details for a guy in Audi UK customer services who has repeatedly helped me with a number of issues with Audi dealers and warranty issues please PM me if I can be of any help

I don't know for sure and I could have got the wrong end of the stick but reading up on TTRS prop shaft failures I suspect there may have been a revision possibly an upgrade to the 'cardan shaft' for their failures.

[Kelza]

So at the end of the day the haldex failed or the shaft to the haldex !when was it serviced ?

[Uncle Fester]

Guy's what everyone's forgetting is that the RS3 is predominately a FWD car and only sends more power to the rear when needed ,we've been discussing REAR failures.In a previous post a while ago P_G said that when he had trouble with his car the tech made a comment that the front was stronger than the back.

[MacD]

Launch control puts massive strain on the prop and components in standard form.

I can see how a shed load extra torque wouldn't help, The cars fast enough when mapped off the line to not need launch control so my advice is if mapped don't use it.

[P_G]

I suspect with all things Audi a bit of mechanical sympathy goes a long way. I recall a number of RS4 owners needing new engines, parts etc. and then you heard of them bouncing the car off the cold limiter before the engine oil and components were warmed up you worked out why. Equally those low mileage ones, taken out once in a blue moon, ragged to within an inch of the capability and then left unused for another couple of weeks doesn't do these cars any good. They are designed to be driven frequently and for long periods.

 

Not everyone can drive their car every day or want to so until it has had a long run out or frequent use, using something like LC on a mapped car, even an OEM car may not be the best option. I use mine just about every day, do the commute in it and LC works perfectly well on the odd occasion I use it.  The more regular use these cars get, the less prone to issues they appear to be (except for brakes!)

[FletchRS3]

Mine is always kept in a garage, always warmed up properly in the garage, is used everyday not just for short runs either and not ragged within an inch of its capabilities everytime it is used and if i do have my foot down in it i will stay out in ot for another 5-10 mins at 30-40mph to cool it down before i take it back home. And i am at 12000 miles now

I was out in it for the first time in a long time on my own had a run out in it and used the LC

After my brake fix touch wood ive had no problems

[FletchRS3]

After this LC will not be used on my car ever again whilst in my ownership.