[45bvtc]

How do you code out the brake pad wear sensor?
I'm going into 17 and under channel 37 in additional it's says error security access required?

 

Don't bother Matt just 'couple' the brake sensor cable and seal...    

 

 

As above 2-years on now and NO worries - just keep them OEM pads as far away from your car as possible...    

[Darnrr]

Thanks 45bvtc much appreciated, i wish they had left them on as they have been replaced with oem Audi ones, i just ordered myself a set so looking forward to squeel free brakes

[45bvtc]

Is it just these two 7mm Allen bolts that need removing to release the calliper? Then the pins for the pads. What do the small torx bolts in the silver pods retain?

 

The Torx bolts are holding the waste-of-time because they-don't-work Requill Tuned Absorbers to the brake caliper; as said before I just don't run 'em preferring EBC Redstuff instead

 

I say specifically that these Requill Tuned absorbers 'don't work' as I have had 'em on and off to evaluate low-speed-brake-squeal on my own and numerous other RS3 and TTRS cars - but hey!

 

But you don't need to mess with 'em Jay if changing pads but I'd take 'em off anyway if only to reduce the overhung weight in front of the steering axle...    

[Mattjj82]

All sorted John, was simply a case of inputting a security code before going further into that module to do the coding!

Don't bother Matt just 'couple' the brake sensor cable and seal...



As above 2-years on now and NO worries - just keep them OEM pads as far away from your car as possible...

[Mattjj82]

Front brakes sorted just unfortunately couldn't get the rear done due to not having that short/dumpy M14 spline bit, why make it so awkward!! 😤

Edited by Mattjj82, 09 April 2016 - 05:46 PM.

[45bvtc]

Front brakes sorted just unfortunately couldn't get the rear done due to not having that short/dumpy M14 spline bit, why make it so award!!
 

 

The rears are a trial, Matt; but well worth the effort, have fun...  

 

[Mattjj82]

Looks great! Mine are so nasty with that horrible corrosion they suffer!!
I've applied loads of layers of jet seal to the front bells and rear disc hubs, so along with the anti corrosion coating by Mtec it should mean it all stays nice 👍

[45bvtc]

Only found one solution at date, Matt; apply once and forget; some say it goes 'yellow' but for me that's way better than 'rust': each to their own...

[JayRS3]

Red stuffs are now on the front, with a new sensor on the near side. Will have to wait till tomorrow for the rears as I haven't got time. Will take the motor out tonight for the bed in procedure before a few hour drive tomorrow. Thankfully even though the original pads have been in there for around 4K I didn't have to really prise the Pistons as the thickness was just as thick as the new red stuff - obviously not driving it hard enough haha. I'm hoping these reds have a lot less brake dust too.

Edited by JayRS3, 09 April 2016 - 08:35 PM.

[Duke3D]

A lot less dust with the reds 

[RS3rick]

So is the general consensus that the Audi pads are crap?

[JayRS3]

Pretty much. That's probably one of the most common issues with the mk1, brakes. The construction of the pad is the issue which results in scoring the discs which then follows with vibration/warped disc effect. However the majority favour the ebc Redstuff and this seems to be the way forward.

[Duke3D]

So is the general consensus that the Audi pads are crap?

 

Yes. Really crap.

 

See the nice round spots. 

 IMG_0276.jpg   79.41K   8 downloads

 

Rivet heads that wear grooves in your discs

 IMG_0273.jpg   49.91K   8 downloads

 

making them FUBAR

[Spaceman_RS3]

The b7 rs4 pads have the same pins rivets and I'm guessing the mk2 RS3 will be the same hence my redstuff fronts arrive tomorrow.

[RS3rick]

The brakes on this RS3 are Farley new, but lack the bite of the one I returned to Saxtons. So stick some red stuff pads and use the same disks?

Also are red stuff up to the job for track use?

Edited by RS3rick, 10 April 2016 - 06:39 AM.

[45bvtc]

Proof if needed: With Redstuff front and rear for 2-years and more and no low speed brake squeal since and having given my old RS3 a quick wash and wipe over yesterday I asked RS3copilot to go clean the brakes and she didn't need asking twice:

 

[JayRS3]

The brakes on this RS3 are Farley new, but lack the bite of the one I returned to Saxtons. So stick some red stuff pads and use the same disks?

Also are red stuff up to the job for track use?

Yup original discs, red stuff pads. My discs/pads and callipers have all been changed 3 times since the vehicle came over the pond, all replaced under warranty. However for the sake of £170 for pads all round it a) beats the excess of £250 on my extended warranty and b - means I have the vehicle in my hands as appose to Audi.

As for track - don't quote me on this I believe yellows are more durable for track but not for road use. I'm sure one of the other lads will be helpful with this.

Edited by JayRS3, 10 April 2016 - 06:56 AM.

[45bvtc]

As for track - don't quote me on this I believe yellows are more durable for track but not for road use. I'm sure one of the other lads will be helpful with this.

 

I agree with JayRS3, 100%

 

However, I'd still prefer Redstuff for a track-day over the OEM pads as I'd hate to see them OEM pad rivits getting anywhere near the discs...

[JayRS3]

I agree with JayRS3, 100%

However, I'd still prefer Redstuff for a track-day over the OEM pads as I'd hate to see them OEM pad rivits getting anywhere near the discs...

I did the bedding in procedure last night quite precisely over about 12 miles up & down the same carriage way. First thoughts on these feels a lot more spongy on the pedal, but I'm assuming once that initial layer on the face of the pad comes off then all should be fine? Or is this the norm? Perhaps I'm just not use to an alternative pad combination.

[45bvtc]

I did the bedding in procedure last night quite precisely over about 12 miles up & down the same carriage way. First thoughts on these feels a lot more spongy on the pedal, but I'm assuming once that initial layer on the face of the pad comes off then all should be fine? Or is this the norm? Perhaps I'm just not use to an alternative pad combination.

 

In my own experience the pedal will firm up once the pads bed in properly, the initial bedding-in EBC compound is as much to 'scrub' the disc surface of previously applied deposits before applying its own materials, as they certainly will

 

And if doing the rears then you'll need to undertake the same procedure and careful application of the handbrake (talking 8P here) will be beneficial and reduce the distance over which you'll need for the rears to be fully bedded - most of the braking on the fronts of course