
Red stuff
#21
Posted 05 April 2016 - 09:37 PM

#22
Posted 05 April 2016 - 09:43 PM

try this one: http://www.eurocarpa...rake-pad-sensor otherwise just put your reg in on the parts finder on their home page http://www.eurocarparts.com and then choose the link to 'Brake pad wear sensors.
#23
Posted 05 April 2016 - 10:35 PM

Thank you. Ordered. Did you use the black shims that were included with the fronts too? Or just stick copper grease on the backs of the pads?try this one: http://www.eurocarpa...rake-pad-sensor otherwise just put your reg in on the parts finder on their home page http://www.eurocarparts.com and then choose the link to 'Brake pad wear sensors.
Edited by JayRS3, 05 April 2016 - 10:36 PM.
#24
Posted 05 April 2016 - 11:52 PM

I have the UK specced pads (no wear sensor option) which came with the black plastic/ rubber bit already stuck to the pads. Added the copper grease that came with the pads to the backs.
#25
Posted 06 April 2016 - 01:03 PM

I run red stuffs front and rear that are for the Subaru and Evo9 Brembo calliper. They fit and work perfectly but don't have the cutout for the wear sensor. Just had it coded it out via VAG-COM/VCDS as I'm more than capable of looking to see what state my pads are in!
For your fronts you need: EBC DP31210C, and the rears: EBC DP31518C.
#26
Posted 06 April 2016 - 04:34 PM

#27
Posted 06 April 2016 - 04:40 PM

Is there any other information that may be useful to help as I'm going to do it this weekend? I take it I still require the piston tool for the rears? Will have to dig through the shed and look for that...been a while
Yes you will need the piston wind-in tool for the rears
#28
Posted 09 April 2016 - 09:35 AM


Now I'm in 2 minds do I ring Audi and tell them about the vibration again (it's not that bad but they've been all replaced several times before, last time was about 4K miles ago) and get some new discs on then stick the Reds on or give the Reds a go and see how things go, although I may not be experiencing the true results if some damage has already be caused on the disc. Warranty expires November so have a bit of time remaining subject to a £250 excess.
Opinions?
#29
Posted 09 April 2016 - 09:46 AM

#30
Posted 09 April 2016 - 10:26 AM


Is it just these two 7mm Allen bolts that need removing to release the calliper? Then the pins for the pads. What do the small torx bolts in the silver pods retain?
Edited by JayRS3, 09 April 2016 - 10:29 AM.
#31
Posted 09 April 2016 - 10:33 AM

You'll see them going through the outside of the pads they have a conical point on the end, visable on the caliper side.
They have a flat anti vibration Spring behind them.
Edited by T-800, 09 April 2016 - 10:38 AM.
#32
Posted 09 April 2016 - 10:45 AM

If changing pads only just tap out the two retaining pins
You'll see them going through the outside of the pads they have a conical point on the end, visable on the caliper side.
They have a flat anti vibration Spring behind them.
Thanks. What tool could be used then to push the piston back in if only the pins are removed? Wouldn't this be tight to be able to get inside the calliper if it's still held onto the mount?
#33
Posted 09 April 2016 - 10:58 AM

I've got a push back tool for fronts..........
Make sure the fluid cap is unscrewed, you may need to draw some fluid off otherwise it could spill over once the pistons are pushed back.....
If your levering the pistons back in anyway keep your eye on the pistons you aren't working on as the force can cause them to move out, you don't want 2 pistons popping out, you could always leave one pad in to counter this.
There is a school of thought that you should also open the bleed nipples too, if you do this you'll need to partially bleed the system.
#34
Posted 09 April 2016 - 11:04 AM

#35
Posted 09 April 2016 - 11:59 AM

Keep an eye out for brake fluid going over the top of the reservoir when you push the calliper pots back in if you loosen the cap. I had this once and had to spend more time cleaning it off quick before it did any damage to paintwork.
It might be worth syphoning some fluid out of the reservoir before you start and then top up with fresh new fluid at the end to keep the level correct.
#36
Posted 09 April 2016 - 01:24 PM

#37
Posted 09 April 2016 - 01:54 PM

#38
Posted 09 April 2016 - 03:33 PM

45bvtc discusses here .
http://www.audirs3oc...bble#entry23325
#39
Posted 09 April 2016 - 03:43 PM

I'm going into 17 and under channel 37 in additional it's says error security access required?
#40
Posted 09 April 2016 - 05:00 PM

Sorry to barge in but can any of you guys point me in correct direction, looking to purchase redstuff pads as mine are squeeling like pigs but on ebcbrakeshop.co.uk the part number brings up quite a few different cars with all the same prt number, will any of the mitsibushi lancer or suburus do?
EBC DP31210C - I'm sure another 'expert' here will confirm...
Buy them direct form EBC on line: with these all you need to do is 'couple' the brake sensor cable - been on my car for 2-years PLUS now and I wouldn't change to anything else
EBC Redstuff have been on MJ12 NHN before...