[Jmcnamee98]

Just fitted the 2 piece Tarox front discs yesterday and need to fit the rears to match.

I'd be interested to hear what you think of these, did you get the matching rears? I spoke to Tarox a while back about making 335mm rears they said it would be doable but I'd have to provide exact specs for them to manufacture.

I've just spent £2k on a front brake kit that's worse than the OEM setup and hasn't lasted long.

[JayRS3]

What's the torque setting on these calliper bracket spline bolts? Is it 90Nm?

[Duke3D]

Yeah, 90Nm + 90 degrees. It is always recommended you replace bolts that have additional degree turn after torquing as they tend to stretch.

[Arcam]

Jmcnamee98,

 

The jury is still out on the new front discs from Tarox, I got the first set off the production line and they are too thick (I did not mike them up but I would guess 0.5 - 1.0mm oversize). I really struggled to get the pads in (Pagid RS29) and those pads has never been out of spec before and I tried all 8 pads in each available slot after fitting the discs and torqueing up the calipres.

 

Once fully home the binding was not very heavy so I carried out 10 slow speed brake applications and it seemed OK, I really did not want to sand the faces down on my £400 brake pads! I did about 5 road miles with the highest speed of 40mph and kept up the gentle braking, when I got home they discs were warm but not hot so I left it to cool fully.

 

4 hours later I went out for the evening and got up to 70, it sounded like the front wheel bearing were knackered and I got a shaking of the steering when cornering and some pad knockback as well, I drove the rest of the way there and back below 40 (approx 25 miles).

 

I took it out again this afternoon and did some higher speed brakes runs with light pedal pressure and apart from the "wheel bearing noise" all seemed OK. I can hear the grooves doing their job at slow speed but if this "wheel bearing noise" (could even be an aerodynamic issue of the cooling slots) does not seriously improve I will be taking them off again.

 

I dropped Tarox an email yesterday before the higher speed run to let them know I have them fitted now, I will give it till the end of this week to decided how I proceed and keep you and Tarox posted.

 

TBH, if a AP fully floating disc and bell was available as a drop in replacement without having to change any brackets or remove the back plate I would not have looked after further

 

I would be interested to hear about your 2k kit as well please.

[Arcam]

Jay

MTEC will sell the same hand discs now, you will need to ask MTEC in the comments for picture B to get the drill pattern correct.

MTEC 1471 + the silver protective coating.
Use discount code New10 for 10% off the discs.

This is MTEC's supplied diagram if you contact them. You need pattern B.

image.jpeg

Which mirrors this picture prepared by John. (45bvtc) who first confirmed and fitted them to an RS3, having confirmed with MTEC the dimensions of the oem discs by drawing.

image.jpeg

Essentially the drill holes start from the centre and fan outwards in a clockwise direction like this

image.jpeg

The coating is tough. I didn't want to contaminate my new pads, so had the old pads put back briefly to rub it off, but they still needed to be buffed off with an abrasive pad.

The stickers, I copied the fronts. I haven't got round to fitting mine yet, if honest, I'm
not sure they will stand up to my wheel cleaning/ pressure washer but I will look to see if the order details are still in the envelope.

http://www.ebay.co.u...Vkz1EMt2qiYYj0A

Which make of brake pad are those? (I am thinking EBC based on colour).

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[JayRS3]

Which make of brake pad are those? (I am thinking EBC based on colour).

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EBC redstuff yes

[Arcam]

Nice one, don't suppose you have the part number do you as EBC are currently denying that they make that pad!

 

Just a thought looking at your rear caliper, that looks like a 8P not 8V one, probably why I can't find the EBC pads

Edited by Arcam, 06 June 2016 - 09:49 AM.

[45bvtc]

Don't blame you I am exactly the same

Can you swap the discs without having to remove the caliper bracket, it looks like there should be enough wiggle room to do it.

Just fitted the 2 piece Tarox front discs yesterday and need to fit the rears to match.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

NO, the caliper bracket has to be removed

[Arcam]

NO, the caliper bracket has to be removed

Thanks for the info, did you replace or reuse the mounting bolts?

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[45bvtc]

Which make of brake pad are those? (I am thinking EBC based on colour).

Sent using Tapatalk

 

I use EBC Redstuff FRONT brake pads (EBC DP31210C) on the OEM brake disc without shims and EBC Redstuff REAR brake pads (EBC DP31518C) on the MTEC brake disc; others will use a pad sourced in the US (tsk!) that has brake wear sensors, I don't; I just cut and join the two wires in the brake sensor cable together.

 

And I always bed my brake pads in - others don't, and I'm now past caring as to why not, or discuss in anymore, even; but bedding in is what I do and I was instrumental in persuading Audi to generate their own instruction at the introduction of the 47i6 upgrade.

 

But that's what I do and I really don't have a problem; I know others who reportedly have done the same and still have a problem, but there you go; above is what I uses and they ain't gonna change anytime soon.

 

Plus, a 185bhp A1 arrives later this week (replacing our A2) and it'll be MTECs and Redstuff all round before the month's out and belive me, the discs and pads will be religiously bedded-in.    

[45bvtc]

Thanks for the info, did you replace or reuse the mounting bolts?

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Re-use with a spot of Loctite Threadlock; Threadlock protects the threads from fretting as well as providing a degree of 'lock'

 

Needless to say do NOT use Studlock... 

[Arcam]

Indeed

 

EBC don't currently made the rears for the 8V chassis, I have ended up with Pagid A3 OEM, I have a local race pad manufacture who can reline my old back plates with something a little more track friendly.

[Paul]

Arcam your questions have been answered.
They are Red Stuff pads already mentioned.

I went with the US sourced fronts to retain the wear sensor, however this is irrelevant to you in the 8v as you have 4 pads per caliper In the 8 pots.

I'm surprised you mention the 8v rear pads are different as the discs are the same?

[45bvtc]

Indeed

 

EBC don't currently made the rears for the 8V chassis, I have ended up with Pagid A3 OEM, I have a local race pad manufacture who can reline my old back plates with something a little more track friendly.

 

1) As Paul says, and

 

2) If you've an 8V chassis owner/driver then respectfully dismiss everything I for one have said as I'm an 8P experienced owner/driver and have zero to add on the 8V chassis and for sure the 8V RS3 brakes are totally different to those employed by the 8P RS3

[Uncle Fester]

The rea

Arcam your questions have been answered.
They are Red Stuff pads already mentioned.
I went with the US sourced fronts to retain the wear sensor, however this is irrelevant to you in the 8v as you have 4 pads per caliper In the 8 pots.
I'm surprised you mention the 8v rear pads are different as the discs are the same?

Paul the rear brake set up are totally different on an 8v which incorporatees an electronic handbrake into the calipers in fact the majority of the front brake set up is also different although parts of which are probably shared across the whole Audi ,VW,Bentley ......range .

[Paul]

Thanks Ben that makes sense now ref the handbrake.

They just retain the same sized rear discs then.

[Uncle Fester]

Thanks Ben that makes sense now ref the handbrake.

They just retain the same sized rear discs then.

 

 

As far as i know Paul but things are getting more complicated for the DIY mechanic its not like the good old days anymore ,changing the rear pads is not as easy as the 8p you now need to use VCDS.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Uncle Fester, 06 June 2016 - 05:46 PM.

[JayRS3]

So I've ordered the MTEC 1471 discs today with the silver coating. Looking forward to replacing my OEM rears. The coating why do they stick it on the disc face itself? I can understand the prone bell section but not the disc. So should I just use the handbrake to bed it in like the front procedure until the disc protection has cleared?

[Mattjj82]

My guess would be, one for ease but also because the pad doesn't sweep the whole face of the disc so if it wasn't dipped/coated entirely you could have exposed areas that would corrode.
It just means they take longer to bed in properly and clean up the disc face..

Make sure after they're fitted you go for a really decent drive and don't apply the handbrake when stationary as the pads can "stick" on the warm coating residue.
Don't be alarmed if they appear not to be clearing right across the disc face, bear with it and they'll come good!

Normal bedding in procedure with a little handbrake usage to speed things up but ultimately they just need time/miles