[T-800]

Thought I'd treat the RS to matching rear discs.




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Edited by veneeringman, 10 January 2015 - 06:33 PM.

[Uncle Fester]

Looking good Sean especially that anti rust coating

[45bvtc]

And 70+ miles later - with lots of handbrake application - they'll be looking like this:

 

 

That's some tough coating MTEC apply...

 

A very good product!

[Jmcnamee98]

Now these look good and much cheaper than TTRS rear hubs with RS6 C5 rear discs.

 

Where did the rear brake decal come from?

[Kelza]

Looking great guys👍😄

[45bvtc]

Now these look good and much cheaper than TTRS rear hubs with RS6 C5 rear discs.

 

Where did the rear brake decal come from?

 

Here in the UK, not cheap but superb quality.  Took some finding to get the right ones but, having purchased others to evaluate, decided these were the ones to fit.  Fitting them was also a problem as they're super sticky so a light coat of liquid soap is needed to get the alignment right.

 

Go see: HTTP://www.supergraphicsF1.com

 

The drilled brake discs took some finding too; I had to make a drawing of my own discs and send that to MTEC for them to identify as MTEC1471; but it's all looking good behind those RS3 rotors now...

[Uncle Fester]

And 70+ miles later - with lots of handbrake application - they'll be looking like this:



That's some tough coating MTEC apply...

A very good product!

Saw these on Bluey today and they look superb.👍

Edited by DAYTONA-500, 13 January 2015 - 10:04 PM.

[JayRS3]

Sorry to bring back an old thread been searching for about an hour to find this to prevent starting another brake related thread.

The MTEC1471 drilled discs are they still going strong? How about the anti corrosive, take it there don't need the POR15 treatment. Any current pictures of the condition of what they're like now, I have an image of when you installed them. Do they need some sort of bedding in procedure too like the pads?


I understand the reasoning for buying 2 sets for the correct rotation pattern however from the image in my head this pair look right? Top holes lead the bottom on both discs. Unless I'm missing something.

The decals what size did you go for for the rear callipers? And did you go for light grey or dark for the outline?

Edited by JayRS3, 04 June 2016 - 02:38 AM.

[P_G]

Can't vouch for others but my MTec rear discs lasted about 5 winter months before the hubs started rusting. Had to have them repainted at my last detail session and applied a couple of coats of GTechniq C1 for good measure


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Edited by P_G, 04 June 2016 - 02:22 PM.

[Paul]

Jay

MTEC will sell the same hand discs now, you will need to ask MTEC in the comments for picture B to get the drill pattern correct.

MTEC 1471 + the silver protective coating.
Use discount code New10 for 10% off the discs.

This is MTEC's supplied diagram if you contact them. You need pattern B.

 image.jpeg   81.19K   29 downloads

Which mirrors this picture prepared by John. (45bvtc) who first confirmed and fitted them to an RS3, having confirmed with MTEC the dimensions of the oem discs by drawing.

 image.jpeg   99.25K   22 downloads

Essentially the drill holes start from the centre and fan outwards in a clockwise direction like this

 image.jpeg   69.49K   19 downloads

The coating is tough. I didn't want to contaminate my new pads, so had the old pads put back briefly to rub it off, but they still needed to be buffed off with an abrasive pad.

The stickers, I copied the fronts. I haven't got round to fitting mine yet, if honest, I'm
not sure they will stand up to my wheel cleaning/ pressure washer but I will look to see if the order details are still in the envelope.

http://www.ebay.co.u...Vkz1EMt2qiYYj0A

Edited by Paul, 04 June 2016 - 09:57 PM.

[JayRS3]

Thanks Paul for the diagram makes sense and I'm glad MTEC now offer this to prevent buying 2 sets. Happy days

I wonder why Audi didn't make the front discs the same direction on opposite sides to prevent all this malarky

Edited by JayRS3, 05 June 2016 - 12:06 AM.

[Uncle Fester]

Thanks Paul for the diagram makes sense and I'm glad MTEC now offer this to prevent buying 2 sets. Happy days I wonder why Audi didn't make the front discs the same direction on opposite sides to prevent all this malarky

Cost.

[45bvtc]

Sorry to bring back an old thread been searching for about an hour to find this to prevent starting another brake related thread.

The MTEC1471 drilled discs are they still going strong? How about the anti corrosive, take it there don't need the POR15 treatment. Any current pictures of the condition of what they're like now, I have an image of when you installed them. Do they need some sort of bedding in procedure too like the pads?

I understand the reasoning for buying 2 sets for the correct rotation pattern however from the image in my head this pair look right? Top holes lead the bottom on both discs. Unless I'm missing something.

The decals what size did you go for for the rear callipers? And did you go for light grey or dark for the outline?

 

My MTECS look as good as the day I fitted 'em, Jay; and no I didn't apply POR15 but will if and when necessary

 

And yes I did bed mine in carefully using the handbrake; see post #3 above

 

Paul has eloquently explained my purchase and the MTEC supply situation at that time (I had purchased 2-sets one for me and one for another RS3 owner (no names but see post #1 above) and only realised the hole-pattern issue on receipt) happily they listened and now provide a choice

 

Decals are light grey and small

 

As for 'are MTEC still going strong; I'll be fitting a set of drilled front and rear MTECs to my 185bhp Black edition A1 as soon as my surgery recovery allows...

 

Apologies for delay in responding, Jay; but I'm banned from both the garage and driving seat for now.    

Edited by 45bvtc, 05 June 2016 - 01:46 PM.

[Arcam]

Jay

MTEC will sell the same hand discs now, you will need to ask MTEC in the comments for picture B to get the drill pattern correct.

MTEC 1471 + the silver protective coating.
Use discount code New10 for 10% off the discs.

This is MTEC's supplied diagram if you contact them. You need pattern B.

image.jpeg

Which mirrors this picture prepared by John. (45bvtc) who first confirmed and fitted them to an RS3, having confirmed with MTEC the dimensions of the oem discs by drawing.

image.jpeg

Essentially the drill holes start from the centre and fan outwards in a clockwise direction like this

image.jpeg

The coating is tough. I didn't want to contaminate my new pads, so had the old pads put back briefly to rub it off, but they still needed to be buffed off with an abrasive pad.

The stickers, I copied the fronts. I haven't got round to fitting mine yet, if honest, I'm
not sure they will stand up to my wheel cleaning/ pressure washer but I will look to see if the order details are still in the envelope.

http://www.ebay.co.u...Vkz1EMt2qiYYj0A

Did you swap them yourself?

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[45bvtc]

Did you swap them yourself?

 

I did, yes...  I don't trust others pointing a spanner at my car, any of my cars...    

[Arcam]

I did, yes... I don't trust others pointing a spanner at my car, any of my cars...

Don't blame you I am exactly the same 😀

Can you swap the discs without having to remove the caliper bracket, it looks like there should be enough wiggle room to do it.

Just fitted the 2 piece Tarox front discs yesterday and need to fit the rears to match.

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[JayRS3]

Don't blame you I am exactly the same

Can you swap the discs without having to remove the caliper bracket, it looks like there should be enough wiggle room to do it.

Just fitted the 2 piece Tarox front discs yesterday and need to fit the rears to match.

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I don't think so. The calliper bracket needs to come off for clearance although I've heard the 2x spline bolts that hold the bracket are a pig to remove especially if it's jacked up on axle stands as you haven't got the leverage. If you have a pit or garage ramps then no problem.
I may use my low profile extra wide car ramps initially to get the car up at the rear just to loosen off the bolts then use the axel stands to remove wheel etc - should work?

Edited by JayRS3, 05 June 2016 - 05:16 PM.

[Duke3D]

 

I don't think so. The calliper bracket needs to come off for clearance although I've heard the 2x spline bolts that hold the bracket are a pig to remove especially if it's jacked up on axle stands as you haven't got the leverage. If you have a pit or garage ramps then no problem.
I may use my low profile extra wide car ramps initially to get the car up at the rear just to loosen off the bolts then use the axel stands to remove wheel etc - should work?

 

Correct the calliper brackets have to come off to remove the disks. Spline bolts are a PITA to remove but quite do-able. I use short M14 splines in a 13mm socket on a short, 450mm, breaker bar to crack them and then a fine tooth ratchet to sloooowwwwlllyyy wind them out whilst the car is jacked and supported on stands.

Edited by Duke3D, 05 June 2016 - 05:51 PM.

[Paul]

Did you swap them yourself?
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Having had a car come off a jack before, I now pick
and choose when I work on my cars with jacks these days.

The rears can be tricky with access to the caliper spline bolts, so I added it to a load of other service work I was having done at APS at the same
time.

[Arcam]

Having had a car come off a jack before, I now pick
and choose when I work on my cars with jacks these days.

The rears can be tricky with access to the caliper spline bolts, so I added it to a load of other service work I was having done at APS at the same
time.

I will do mine next week or a ramp then, thanks for the info chaps.

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