[T-800]

Decided on a few choice upgrades this week.
First off as many of you will be familiar with the Dog bone Stainless steel insert by APR together with the 034 upper insert, this combo was recommended to me by Brian (Fivepotfan)

Fitting was a doddle, although engine undertray needs removing because the actual dog done mount needs removing to fit the upper insert.



After being pushed up into place with grease applied to aid fitment.


Dog mount back on


APR insert lubed & fitted


Started the car up and no noticeable extra vibrations.

Out on the road there is much improvement in the gear changes, they seem crisper now before I’d noticed some transmission ‘slop’ had creeped in, now that has gone.

I can ‘feel’ the engine more now too which adds to the experience of driving the RS.

On the whole the front feels a lot tighter overall.

Worthwhile mod for £110 and half hour fitting.

The GFB DV+.

More involved fit, but the promise of sharper throttle response and less boost lost was too to much to resist.

To aid fitting I took out my air box setup mainly to get at the bottom Torx bolt.


Easy to fit though, a smear of oil on the piston to ensure smooth movement and push on to the factory solenoid then refit with the new longer bolts.

Is it worth it ?

Well I don’t detect an instant improvement in anything really but will update at a later date when I’ve had more time with it on.

[nickrs3]

Decided on a few choice upgrades this week.
First off as many of you will be familiar with the Dog bone Stainless steel insert by APR together with the 034 upper insert, this combo was recommended to me by Brian (Fivepotfan)

Fitting was a doddle, although engine undertray needs removing because the actual dog done mount needs removing to fit the upper insert.



After being pushed up into place with grease applied to aid fitment.


Dog mount back on


APR insert lubed & fitted


Started the car up and no noticeable extra vibrations.

Out on the road there is much improvement in the gear changes, they seem crisper now before I’d noticed some transmission ‘slop’ had creeped in, now that has gone.

I can ‘feel’ the engine more now too which adds to the experience of driving the RS.

On the whole the front feels a lot tighter overall.

Worthwhile mod for £110 and half hour fitting.

The GFB DV+.

More involved fit, but the promise of sharper throttle response and less boost lost was too to much to resist.

To aid fitting I took out my air box setup mainly to get at the bottom Torx bolt.


Easy to fit though, a smear of oil on the piston to ensure smooth movement and push on to the factory solenoid then refit with the new longer bolts.

Is it worth it ?

Well I don’t detect an instant improvement in anything really but will update at a later date when I’ve had more time with it on.

For the novice what is the DV+ supposed to do?


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[T-800]

For the novice what is the DV+ supposed to do?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The solenoid coil itself from the factory-fitted valve is great (the ECU opens it faster than any pneumatic valve so why replace it?), but the weak point however is the valve mechanism itself. So GFB’s DV+ solves this problem by replacing just the valve parts with an anodized billet aluminum housing fitted with a brass piston machined to exacting tolerances.

Other manufacturers’ products involve replacing the entire system with a traditional pneumatic valve, requiring long vacuum hose runs, additional parts for tapping into the intake manifold vacuum, plus either a different solenoid valve to actuate the pneumatic valve or a ballast resistor to plug into the OE wiring loom. All these additional items result in a product that is slower, less responsive, more expensive and takes much longer to install.

GFB’s DV+ solution on the other hand is more responsive, less expensive, easier to install, and doesn't cause compressor surge/turbo flutter. Oh, and it doesn't require different springs or frequent re-builds.

• Retains the factory solenoid coil for seamless integration
• Replaces plastic valve parts with metal for reliability and strength on chipped engines
• Direct-fit replacement with GFB’s TMS benefits
• Exclusive “pilot-actuated” valve mechanism for rapid response at high boost

Many late-model European cars use ECU controlled solenoid-type diverter valves. This is a good concept because the valve can react very quickly and it only opens when it needs to.

However, there are some problems with these valves. There are typically two types of solenoid-actuated diverter valves found standard on VAG and European cars, both of which have their shortcomings.

Common OE Problem #1

• The diaphragm types are commonly known to rupture, especially when boost and temperature are increased as a result of chip tuning.

Common OE Problem #2

• The plastic piston-type leaks far more than most people realize (by design, not from wear), and doesn't always close after a high-boost gear shift.

Additionally, in both cases, the solenoid on the OE diverter is directly connected to the valve mechanism, which is not ideal because neither it nor the return spring are strong enough to open and close the valve reliably at high boost.

With problems like this, you can see why other aftermarket manufacturers assume the best solution is to replace the factory diverter entirely. Unfortunately though, whilst their replacement kits might be stronger than the factory diverter, their slower response speed and lower flow do not justify the extra cost and complexity - more of a compromise than a solution.

 

Standard plastic Diverter valve

Edited by T-800, 03 August 2019 - 06:58 AM.

[nickrs3]

The solenoid coil itself from the factory-fitted valve is great (the ECU opens it faster than any pneumatic valve so why replace it?), but the weak point however is the valve mechanism itself. So GFB’s DV+ solves this problem by replacing just the valve parts with an anodized billet aluminum housing fitted with a brass piston machined to exacting tolerances.
Other manufacturers’ products involve replacing the entire system with a traditional pneumatic valve, requiring long vacuum hose runs, additional parts for tapping into the intake manifold vacuum, plus either a different solenoid valve to actuate the pneumatic valve or a ballast resistor to plug into the OE wiring loom. All these additional items result in a product that is slower, less responsive, more expensive and takes much longer to install.
GFB’s DV+ solution on the other hand is more responsive, less expensive, easier to install, and doesn't cause compressor surge/turbo flutter. Oh, and it doesn't require different springs or frequent re-builds.

• Retains the factory solenoid coil for seamless integration
• Replaces plastic valve parts with metal for reliability and strength on chipped engines
• Direct-fit replacement with GFB’s TMS benefits
• Exclusive “pilot-actuated” valve mechanism for rapid response at high boost

Many late-model European cars use ECU controlled solenoid-type diverter valves. This is a good concept because the valve can react very quickly and it only opens when it needs to.
However, there are some problems with these valves. There are typically two types of solenoid-actuated diverter valves found standard on VAG and European cars, both of which have their shortcomings.
Common OE Problem #1

• The diaphragm types are commonly known to rupture, especially when boost and temperature are increased as a result of chip tuning.

Common OE Problem #2

• The plastic piston-type leaks far more than most people realize (by design, not from wear), and doesn't always close after a high-boost gear shift.

Additionally, in both cases, the solenoid on the OE diverter is directly connected to the valve mechanism, which is not ideal because neither it nor the return spring are strong enough to open and close the valve reliably at high boost.
With problems like this, you can see why other aftermarket manufacturers assume the best solution is to replace the factory diverter entirely. Unfortunately though, whilst their replacement kits might be stronger than the factory diverter, their slower response speed and lower flow do not justify the extra cost and complexity - more of a compromise than a solution.
gfbdv+.jpg
gfbvalve.jpg

Standard plastic Diverter valve
s-l300.jpg

Thankyou very informative


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[MarkMac-RS3]

Bought the DV+ for the missus M135i, very common issue on them as they have the old diaphragm type same as was in the 8p S3’s. I haven’t fitted it yet because it’s an absolute pig of a job. The DV is located on the turbo housing. Very tight to get to it, the water pump is right next to it blocking access from the wheel well and there is very little room to get any tools in from the front of the car.

I have considered one for mine, I did read some posts online of them starting to stick over time or leak worse than stock from new. Not sure how common this is or how true.

Edited by MarkMac-RS3, 03 August 2019 - 03:50 PM.

[Huwgo R]

Hi

Thanks for this im gonna get the apr mount

Huwgo

[0120raptor]

Decided on a few choice upgrades this week.
First off as many of you will be familiar with the Dog bone Stainless steel insert by APR together with the 034 upper insert, this combo was recommended to me by Brian (Fivepotfan)

Fitting was a doddle, although engine undertray needs removing because the actual dog done mount needs removing to fit the upper insert.



After being pushed up into place with grease applied to aid fitment.


Dog mount back on


APR insert lubed & fitted


Started the car up and no noticeable extra vibrations.

Out on the road there is much improvement in the gear changes, they seem crisper now before I’d noticed some transmission ‘slop’ had creeped in, now that has gone.

I can ‘feel’ the engine more now too which adds to the experience of driving the RS.

On the whole the front feels a lot tighter overall.

Worthwhile mod for £110 and half hour fitting.

The GFB DV+.

More involved fit, but the promise of sharper throttle response and less boost lost was too to much to resist.

To aid fitting I took out my air box setup mainly to get at the bottom Torx bolt.


Easy to fit though, a smear of oil on the piston to ensure smooth movement and push on to the factory solenoid then refit with the new longer bolts.

Is it worth it ?

Well I don’t detect an instant improvement in anything really but will update at a later date when I’ve had more time with it on.

Sean

I replaced my dogbone mount the same as yours recently. Did you manage to tighten the big bolt to Audi specs ? 130 Nm + 90* 

[T-800]

Sean
I replaced my dogbone mount the same as yours recently. Did you manage to tighten the big bolt to Audi specs ? 130 Nm + 90*

Not the full 90 deg no as I reused the original bolt.

More like 45 deg.

Seemed overkill to me anyway.

[RS3Dell]

Not the full 90 deg no as I reused the original bolt.
More like 45 deg.
Seemed overkill to me anyway.

Sean did your bottom stop you at 45' when doing the bolt up ? 🤔

I got the full 90' when we reused the bolt after fitting a Powerflex dog bone insert the other weekend to a friend's TTRS.😂

You do have a point about the torque figurer + the 90' mate.👍

Dell.

[T-800]

Sean did your bottom stop you at 45' when doing the bolt up ?

I got the full 90' when we reused the bolt after fitting a Powerflex dog bone insert the other weekend to a friend's TTRS.

You do have a point about the torque figurer + the 90' mate.

Dell.

I didn’t feel it needed it Dell.

With it being a angle tightened bolt I also didn’t want to push my luck because 130 and 45 is incredibly tight.

[RS3Dell]

I didn’t feel it needed it Dell.
With it being a angle tightened bolt I also didn’t want to push my luck because 130 and 45 is incredibly tight.

I agree Sean 👍

Dell.

[0120raptor]

I didn’t feel it needed it Dell.

With it being a angle tightened bolt I also didn’t want to push my luck because 130 and 45 is incredibly tight.

I couldn`t get 130 plus 90*. It was almost at the point of snapping my 24" strongarm.

[T-800]

I couldn`t get 130 plus 90*. It was almost at the point of snapping my 24" strongarm.

It doesn’t help when the bolt feels like that is going to happen

[nickrs3]

The solenoid coil itself from the factory-fitted valve is great (the ECU opens it faster than any pneumatic valve so why replace it?), but the weak point however is the valve mechanism itself. So GFB’s DV+ solves this problem by replacing just the valve parts with an anodized billet aluminum housing fitted with a brass piston machined to exacting tolerances.
Other manufacturers’ products involve replacing the entire system with a traditional pneumatic valve, requiring long vacuum hose runs, additional parts for tapping into the intake manifold vacuum, plus either a different solenoid valve to actuate the pneumatic valve or a ballast resistor to plug into the OE wiring loom. All these additional items result in a product that is slower, less responsive, more expensive and takes much longer to install.
GFB’s DV+ solution on the other hand is more responsive, less expensive, easier to install, and doesn't cause compressor surge/turbo flutter. Oh, and it doesn't require different springs or frequent re-builds.

• Retains the factory solenoid coil for seamless integration
• Replaces plastic valve parts with metal for reliability and strength on chipped engines
• Direct-fit replacement with GFB’s TMS benefits
• Exclusive “pilot-actuated” valve mechanism for rapid response at high boost

Many late-model European cars use ECU controlled solenoid-type diverter valves. This is a good concept because the valve can react very quickly and it only opens when it needs to.
However, there are some problems with these valves. There are typically two types of solenoid-actuated diverter valves found standard on VAG and European cars, both of which have their shortcomings.
Common OE Problem #1

• The diaphragm types are commonly known to rupture, especially when boost and temperature are increased as a result of chip tuning.

Common OE Problem #2

• The plastic piston-type leaks far more than most people realize (by design, not from wear), and doesn't always close after a high-boost gear shift.

Additionally, in both cases, the solenoid on the OE diverter is directly connected to the valve mechanism, which is not ideal because neither it nor the return spring are strong enough to open and close the valve reliably at high boost.
With problems like this, you can see why other aftermarket manufacturers assume the best solution is to replace the factory diverter entirely. Unfortunately though, whilst their replacement kits might be stronger than the factory diverter, their slower response speed and lower flow do not justify the extra cost and complexity - more of a compromise than a solution.
gfbdv+.jpg
gfbvalve.jpg

Standard plastic Diverter valve
s-l300.jpg

GFP DV+ ordered!


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[MarkMac-RS3]

Any thoughts on the DV+ so far Sean?

Finally got round to fitting the DV+ on the missus’ M135i. The picture makes it look like there is a lot of room. Three and a half hours to change it and a lot of swearing say other wise 😂

Attached Images

• 

[T-800]

Any thoughts on the DV+ so far Sean?

Finally got round to fitting the DV+ on the missus’ M135i. The picture makes it look like there is a lot of room. Three and a half hours to change it and a lot of swearing say other wise

No real difference I can tell to be honest.

[SK-RS3]

Both of these are in the basket apparently there’s two versions on AwesomeGTI
Anybody know which one I need ?

[T-800]

Both of these are in the basket apparently there’s two versions on AwesomeGTI
Anybody know which one I need ?

You need to check under the car really.

Mine was version 2

[SK-RS3]

You need to check under the car really.

Mine was version 2

We should in theory be the same shouldn’t we both glacier white FL

[T-800]

We should in theory be the same shouldn’t we both glacier white FL

colour has no influence here

Depends where the subframe was assembled I’m told although I’ve yet to come across a version 1.