[Seb_RS3]

So after checking out what decided to cause my CEL to come on I found out that it's an EVAP error again. The same thing that I got at almost the exact same time last year. 

 

Last time I got the charcoal canister and some pipes changed but not the n80 valve. Would it be best to change both the canister and the valve this time or just get the valve first and see if that clears the issue?

 

And how do you find parts on TPS? I don't ever seem to get anything back when I search on their website.

[JayRS3]

So after checking out what decided to cause my CEL to come on I found out that it's an EVAP error again. The same thing that I got at almost the exact same time last year.

Last time I got the charcoal canister and some pipes changed but not the n80 valve. Would it be best to change both the canister and the valve this time or just get the valve first and see if that clears the issue?

And how do you find parts on TPS? I don't ever seem to get anything back when I search on their website.

Part number is 06H 906 517 B.
I’d start with the valve as that’s probably more common, cheaper and hasn’t been replaced to date. Also you can do it yourself.

Edited by JayRS3, 02 July 2019 - 04:25 PM.

[Seb_RS3]

Just brings up loads of different options to buy oil for me. I must be doing something wrong. May have to take a trek out to the dealers.

[JayRS3]

Just brings up loads of different options to buy oil for me. I must be doing something wrong. May have to take a trek out to the dealers.

That’s not from TPS site mate? Never used the TPS site just ring them up and order the parts, cheaper than dealers normally. Just give them the part number, pay your money and replace it, job done.

[scooterperu]

i had that issue some months ago, changed the valve and the problem was still there, so i changed the charcoal canister and problem solved, they cost about 20 USD from china, absolutely nothing wrong with it yet.

 

i think is much easier to change the canister than the valve, i personally think it is more likely for the canister to fail than the valve, so maybe its your 'new' canister that failed again, so i'd try that first before taking the valve.

 

i think with VCDS you can test if the solenoid is working correctly so you dont remove it for nothing

[JayRS3]

i had that issue some months ago, changed the valve and the problem was still there, so i changed the charcoal canister and problem solved, they cost about 20 USD from china, absolutely nothing wrong with it yet.

i think is much easier to change the canister than the valve, i personally think it is more likely for the canister to fail than the valve, so maybe its your 'new' canister that failed again, so i'd try that first before taking the valve.

i think with VCDS you can test if the solenoid is working correctly so you dont remove it for nothing

correct about testing the n80 but I don’t think seb has vcds to test.

[Seb_RS3]

Yeah unfortunately I don’t have VCDS to test that but I don’t think the valve is too expensive.


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[Duke3D]

You should always change the N80 and the charcoal canister together. When I changed my valve there were lots of pieces of crap from the canister in it. 😫

[Seb_RS3]

Well I’ve managed to get hold of a canister from TPS but they say that they can’t get the valve on it’s own and can only get it with all the hoses. Does anyone know anywhere that would be likely to sell them on their own?

I’m going to try just changing the canister anyway to see if that has any effect. If it does will the CEL go off on its own or will I manually have to clear the code?


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[Duke3D]

The code has to be cleared from the Engine module manually I’m afraid Seb. Do you know anyone local to you with VCDS who could do it for you. Unfortunately I’m a bit far away from you

Drop a PM to Tom at Crewe Audi on the forum as I’ve bought a few parts through them before at a discount including an N80, 06H906517B without any pipes

[Seb_RS3]

I've still got an OBD II reader that I borrowed the other day so I can clear it. Just would have been nice if it cleared on its own so then I would have know if that was the issue. 

 

The canister did smell of fuel but I could still hear the charcoal shaking around inside it so I don't this it was ruined.

 

I'll clear the fault and if it comes back I'll drop that guy a PM.

[Seb_RS3]

Dammit, the new canister didn't work. I guess I have a spare £85 box of charcoal now then. 

 

I'll get in touch with the guy and try and get a valve.

 

Is this actually bad to drive around with? (Obviously I don't want to drive any more than necessary with it but just curious as I'm not sure what the effects are.)

[JayRS3]

Dammit, the new canister didn't work. I guess I have a spare £85 box of charcoal now then.

I'll get in touch with the guy and try and get a valve.

Is this actually bad to drive around with? (Obviously I don't want to drive any more than necessary with it but just curious as I'm not sure what the effects are.)

I’ve completely removed my charcoal canister, to make way for my catch can. It’s only for emissions. I have no issues with faults on system. But obviously that valve potentially being the culprit on yours could be an issue. Me personally, I’d drive it.

Edited by JayRS3, 06 July 2019 - 10:08 AM.

[Seb_RS3]

I’ve completely removed my charcoal canister, to make way for my catch can. It’s only for emissions. I have no issues with faults on system. But obviously that valve potentially being the culprit on yours could be an issue. Me personally, I’d drive it.

 

Yeah. I'm only using it for essential trips, not taking it on massive drives out or anything silly. It's not driving any different at all as far as I can tell. Hopefully I can get the valve ASAP and get that chucked on there.

[Duke3D]

Were you able to clear the code from the engine module using the OBD II reader Seb? The only reason I ask is I had a cheapie one prior to getting VCDS and although it wouldn’t show any errors when attempting to clear codes it never cleared them 😊

[Seb_RS3]

Were you able to clear the code from the engine module using the OBD II reader Seb? The only reason I ask is I had a cheapie one prior to getting VCDS and although it wouldn’t show any errors when attempting to clear codes it never cleared them

Well I clear it using the reader I haven and it goes away on there and the management light goes out for a few driving cycles. I’m not sure how I’d tell if it’s actually cleared or not beyond that to be honest.


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[Duke3D]

Well I clear it using the reader I haven and it goes away on there and the management light goes out for a few driving cycles. I’m not sure how I’d tell if it’s actually cleared or not beyond that to be honest.


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Well if the light went out it must have cleared the code so hopefully it’s the N80 then 😊

[Seb_RS3]

Well I finally got the valve only to then not be able to get the intake manifold off despite some gentle persuasion. And then to top it off when I was putting the plastic cover back on the engine one of the little rubber boots somehow fell out and is now on the damn tray somewhere out of my reach. So it’s off to the garage we go for a nice hefty bill.

I’m just going to have to accept it that I hate this car and this car hates me. Haha.




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[RS3Dell]

Well I finally got the valve only to then not be able to get the intake manifold off despite some gentle persuasion. And then to top it off when I was putting the plastic cover back on the engine one of the little rubber boots somehow fell out and is now on the damn tray somewhere out of my reach. So it’s off to the garage we go for a nice hefty bill. I’m just going to have to accept it that I hate this car and this car hates me. Haha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Seb.

There's a knack to getting the 8P upper manifold off due to the retaining studs.😟

You need to pull the top away from the lower manifold but at the same time lift it over the studs.

The 8v use bolts instead of the studs & its a piece of piss 😁

Dell.

[Seb_RS3]

Yeah it was hardly coming away at the top at all though and I don’t want to break it. I have the worst of luck with this thing lol.


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