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DIY replacing front and rear break-pads RS3 8p.

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#1
Pedreus

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Hi !

My name is Peder and this is my first topic on Audi RS3 forum.

I´m from Sweden so l apologize for my bad english :)!

I´m a happy owner of a RS3 8p from 2012.

The former owner has done some upgrade like bigger intercooler,Milltec turbo back system,haldex performance kit,bigger fuel pump,BMC air filter, new custom made gearbox and engine software .

The power and torque is enough to make me smile every time l sit behind steering weal!

 

Last week the break warning light came on so l did a check around the car!

I have to change front pads and the rear pads are bad to, so l have ordered EBC redstuff all around.

 

 

I would be happy if there is someone that can give me some tip like "DIY " to replace pads and perhaps which tool l need.

 

 

Regards

 

Peder



#2
Roy

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Hello Peder They can be changed in about 30 mins thats for both sides , really easy job If I can do it anyone can

#3
T-800

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Ok Pedar

Apologies I did have some actual photos of the set up but cannot find them at the moment.

Fronts first

Here’s an exploded view of the set up

cafeadf1e305d80e89326d2c3ff44a16.jpg

 

Picture of components on my previous 8P

 

Attached File  front brakes1.jpg   87.75K   10 downloads

Once you’ve jacked up the car and removed the wheel
1) Remove the wear sensor and it’s wire from passenger side pads you’ll see the wire attached into item 10 and there’s a plastic sensor clipped into each pad in a cutout.

2) with a pin punch or something similar tap out the 2 locating pins, items 11 on the drawing

3) item 10 the anti vibration spring will come off once you’ve tapped out the pins.

4) unscrew the brake reservoir cap in the engine bay place a cloth under it just in case fluid gets forced out.

5) gently lever the pads back to give yourself some room to pull them out
a set of water pump pliers or similar is good but use a block of wood on the caliper to protect it from getting damaged.

6) you should be able to pull the pads out now

7) clean up any excess dust from the caliper opening

8) make sure the four pistons (2 on each side of the caliper) are pushed back into the caliper as far as they’ll go, take care doing this as pushing 2 in on one side can make the opposing 2 move outwards, if in doubt put 1 old pad back in to stop this happing

9) get your new pads and smear some ceratec brake pad grease on the rear where the pistons make contact and a light smear on the top / Btm edges where the pad touches the caliper, this will aid the pads sliding into the caliper and allow them to slide sideways freely in use.

10) slide in the new pads / clip in the new wear sensors / hold the anti rattle spring against the pad edges and insert the locating pins back in, do the bottom pin first gently tapping the pin until you see the point come through on the outside of the caliper, then apply pressure to the spring (10) and insert the top pin and tap it home.

11) tuck the wear sensor cable into the anti-rattle spring, you’ll see it has a tab that sticks out and up for the cable to sit in.

12) check brake fluid level if all ok re-fit the reservoir cap.

13) repeat for the opposite side

14) there’s only 1 side that has a wear sensor so don’t panic when you see one side without one.

15) once you’ve done both fronts gently press the brake pedal to take up the slack pushing the pistons back will have caused.

16) go for a drive observing any pad bedding in procedure.


Edited by T-800, 04 April 2018 - 07:54 AM.


#4
RS3Dell

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Hello Peder They can be changed in about 30 mins thats for both sides , really easy job If I can do it anyone can

 

I would like to be a fly on the wall when that happened  :D

 

Dell.


Edited by RS3Dell, 03 April 2018 - 09:29 PM.


#5
RS3Dell

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Peder.

 

You will also need to replace the wear sensor as well with the new pads mate.

 

Dell.



#6
T-800

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Ok Peder

here's some info on the rears....

Attached File  rear brakes.png   160.54K   40 downloads

Attached File  rear brakes2.png   143.68K   37 downloads

Exploded view of the set up

7303dd11753caa8114d0bd692a1234f5.jpg

Edited by T-800, 04 April 2018 - 08:03 AM.


#7
Gussman

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For the front brake locating pad pin removal (T800's front brake instructions above - line item 2), i borrowed this "tool" from a friend. Much easier (safer) than your normal pin removal punch:

 

http://forums.racing...read.php?t=1390

 

 

The countersunk end self locates into the pointy end of the pin, hammer away without worrying the punch may slip and chip the caliper paint.....

 

Yeah i know, that price........BUT wait till you add the postage on to this side of the pond.........

:blink:



#8
RS3Dell

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Gussman.

 

If you push down on the anti vibration spring with a screw drive the pins will push out easy mate. :)

 

Dell.



#9
T-800

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Gussman.

If you push down on the anti vibration spring with a screw drive the pins will push out easy mate. :)

Dell.


I can honestly say in all the times I’ve removed / fitted pads on 8P/8V etc I’ve never once thought the need to buy a special pin removal tool.
Finger and thumb to hold punch against the tip of the pins and gently tap.
As @Dell says above once you get the 1st pin out of its outer hole you can press the spring in and actually withdraw it the rest of the way by hand.

#10
RS3Dell

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Sean.

 

I just push down on the spring near the upper pin 1st,then once its out the spring does sweet F all & the bottom pin just pushes out with not effort. :)

 

Dell.






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