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Shock removal tips

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#1
TommyRS3

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Anyone got any tips of getting the front shocks out of the hub? Got some h&r springs to fit and looking for some pointers before i start.

Thanks

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#2
Duke3D

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Don't disconnect the lower control arms from the hub carrier as you can still drop the hub enough to remove the shock with them still connected. The first time I removed my shocks I did remove the arms and then promptly pulled one of my driveshaft UJ's apart when I accidentally dropped the hub too far down.

You will need a hub spreader tool to open the split in the back of the hub to slide the shock out once the lower bolt is removed. My shocks were jammed tight in the carrier so I used heat on the hub to help get it out. Not too much though as you might fubar the bearing. Clean out the inside of the hub carrier with a wire brush to remove all the corrosion to help the shock for refitting. Do the same on the shock as well. Greasing the inside of the carrier lightly helps for refitting as well.

Other than that it's pretty standard stuff.
Audi RS3 8P 2011: Phantom Black, Retrofit genuine Audi black grille. Mods: Milltek Decat pipes, Bilstein B16 Coilovers with 034 Motorsport top mounts. Superpro front control arms, Powerflex Gearbox & Dogbone mount inserts, 034 Motorsport Rear ARB, 034 Motorsport Front & Rear Drop Links. Reyland 370mm front brake rotors.

#3
TommyRS3

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So dont need to remove hub from car? What about driveshaft where attaches to hub? Remove the nut and push shaft in so it cant be pulled out when pushing down hub to remove shock?

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#4
Duke3D

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No you are way off.

The hub stays attached to the car and no need to disconnect the drive shaft either.

Very basic front strut removal process is:
Jack up car on one side. Support with axle stand.
Remove wheel
Jack up strut (under control arm) to release tension on ARB droplink. Undo drop link from top of strut.
Drop jack down but leave under control arm.
Undo lower strut bolt at back of hub carrier.
Insert hub spreader tool and turn to open split.
Lower hub on jack and manipulate hub (rocking motion) until hub drops away from strut. (Don't drop hub too far as you may damage driveshaft)
Undo 3 bolts on top plate and remove front strut from car.

Google it for better instructions or get a local garage to do it for you as these nuts and bolts need to be torqued back up to certain settings. Audi say all bolts and nuts need to be replaced as well as they are single use only.

If you are not confident to do this type of work I would recommend finding a local tech. Much safer.
Audi RS3 8P 2011: Phantom Black, Retrofit genuine Audi black grille. Mods: Milltek Decat pipes, Bilstein B16 Coilovers with 034 Motorsport top mounts. Superpro front control arms, Powerflex Gearbox & Dogbone mount inserts, 034 Motorsport Rear ARB, 034 Motorsport Front & Rear Drop Links. Reyland 370mm front brake rotors.

#5
TommyRS3

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Iv lowered plenty of cars just worry about putting driveshaft out when pushing down on the hub. Most time i have undone the driveshaft nut from hub to allow hub to go down further without pulling on tbe driveshaft and pulling out of box

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#6
Duke3D

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Ok good. With your experience you will be fine then. You could compress the original spring while it's still on the car and that way give yourself more room to compress the shock a bit to aid removal.
When the shorter springs are fitted the strut will be easier to refit as well.

When I fubar,d my UJ I couldn't get the driveshaft bolt out so had to pay a mobile mechanic to fix it 😩
Audi RS3 8P 2011: Phantom Black, Retrofit genuine Audi black grille. Mods: Milltek Decat pipes, Bilstein B16 Coilovers with 034 Motorsport top mounts. Superpro front control arms, Powerflex Gearbox & Dogbone mount inserts, 034 Motorsport Rear ARB, 034 Motorsport Front & Rear Drop Links. Reyland 370mm front brake rotors.

#7
TommyRS3

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Ill just do it step by step and be carefull now to pull on driveshaft too much when lower the hub down to get shock out

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#8
red14

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Glad I didn't pull anything apart today then - reference other threads on rear suspension my pal and I did the rears and drop links today, and were about to start the fronts when it came time for a coffee. Then decided not to bother, after reading the above it's a good thing too or we would have been in so much sh*t.

 

I'm going to do the sensible thing and let someone else deal with it. BTW is it worth changing out anything else while they're at it? So far it's only shocks, top mounts and drop links but any other suggestions welcome. Car's done 42k now and is enjoying the love.



#9
Duke3D

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Full set of Bilstein B16's 😉

Edited by Duke3D, 29 November 2016 - 05:24 PM.

Audi RS3 8P 2011: Phantom Black, Retrofit genuine Audi black grille. Mods: Milltek Decat pipes, Bilstein B16 Coilovers with 034 Motorsport top mounts. Superpro front control arms, Powerflex Gearbox & Dogbone mount inserts, 034 Motorsport Rear ARB, 034 Motorsport Front & Rear Drop Links. Reyland 370mm front brake rotors.

#10
TommyRS3

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Im doing mine this week few people have sed remove the main hit nut for driveshaft as makes it alot easier to get shock out of hub and dont run the risk of pulling on driveshaft then replace bolt with a new one after

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#11
Duke3D

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Honestly don't think you need to waste your time removing the drive shaft bolt. Especially if you leave the control arm connected to the strut as this will control how far the hub can move out. 

 

Just support the hub on a jack to stop it dropping too far, just enough to pull the strut out.

 

Honest thats all it needs.


Audi RS3 8P 2011: Phantom Black, Retrofit genuine Audi black grille. Mods: Milltek Decat pipes, Bilstein B16 Coilovers with 034 Motorsport top mounts. Superpro front control arms, Powerflex Gearbox & Dogbone mount inserts, 034 Motorsport Rear ARB, 034 Motorsport Front & Rear Drop Links. Reyland 370mm front brake rotors.

#12
RS3Dell

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Im with you Duke on this one as ive done my old S-Line 3.2 its a POP they come apart with no real probs :)  



#13
Duke3D

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Im with you Duke on this one as ive done my old S-Line 3.2 its a POP they come apart with no real probs :)  

 

Agreed  :D


Audi RS3 8P 2011: Phantom Black, Retrofit genuine Audi black grille. Mods: Milltek Decat pipes, Bilstein B16 Coilovers with 034 Motorsport top mounts. Superpro front control arms, Powerflex Gearbox & Dogbone mount inserts, 034 Motorsport Rear ARB, 034 Motorsport Front & Rear Drop Links. Reyland 370mm front brake rotors.

#14
RS3Dell

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Just a follow up you can use WD40/Plusgas around the bottom of the leg where it meets the hub.

Then with a block of wood tap down the hub where it meets the leg,ive done this on my old A3 & many MKIV Golfs  :)



#15
TommyRS3

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Ill.give it a bash. Main worry is pulling driveshaft apart from the force applied to hub pulling down to get it off shock. Ordered new top mounts and bearings so all go back new again as cars done 40k

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#16
RS3Dell

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Hi Tommy

The top mount will be fine but the bearing more than likely be NFG !



#17
TommyRS3

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Anyone no how to get the hub pinch bolt out? Nut came off but the m14 bolt is solid and wont move at all to remove

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#18
Duke3D

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If your using a hub spreader tool make sure it hasn't gone too far in and is fouling the bolt. If not put the nut back on and hammer through. 


Audi RS3 8P 2011: Phantom Black, Retrofit genuine Audi black grille. Mods: Milltek Decat pipes, Bilstein B16 Coilovers with 034 Motorsport top mounts. Superpro front control arms, Powerflex Gearbox & Dogbone mount inserts, 034 Motorsport Rear ARB, 034 Motorsport Front & Rear Drop Links. Reyland 370mm front brake rotors.

#19
TommyRS3

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Well all done now. Passenher shaft came out box. Got it back in but now its making a horrendous noise when driving like.metal on metal has fell off etc. Not drivable so its going to have to go Audi next week

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#20
Duke3D

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It will be the inner UJ has popped apart. If you've got the time remove the complete drive shaft from the car & get it on a bench. Remove the inner CV boot and you will see that the ball races have been popped out of their recess.

 

How far did you drop the hub then? Mine accidentally dropped to floor level when I popped mine. With a jack supporting it, it should have been fine.

 

Audi will most likely just want to replace the whole drive shaft.


Audi RS3 8P 2011: Phantom Black, Retrofit genuine Audi black grille. Mods: Milltek Decat pipes, Bilstein B16 Coilovers with 034 Motorsport top mounts. Superpro front control arms, Powerflex Gearbox & Dogbone mount inserts, 034 Motorsport Rear ARB, 034 Motorsport Front & Rear Drop Links. Reyland 370mm front brake rotors.




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