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#39849 Weekly maintenance: How to safely clean your pride and joy, and the common mi...

Posted by Obsidian Detailing on 11 September 2015 - 10:29 PM

I have no idea if you guys have "how to" threads, and am in no way interested in trying to teach people how to suck eggs, but i thought a couple of threads regarding car cleaning and common pitfalls may help at least some of you?

 

Not wanting to be boring, but imo the BIGGEST mistake most people make is to assume your products are "safe". For the most part cleaning a car is one of the only, if not THE only time people are systematically exposed to chemicals. They may come in fancy bottles, smell nice, be expensive, but they are containers of synthetic chemicals, period. Its not a huge thing to simply put on a pair of gloves, maybe wear long sleeves, and not spray into the air. The dangers ARE real. Even if we choose to ignore and crack on, at least we make an informed choice knowing the truths

 

Boring stuff over with now ha ha

 

Its important to remember that most of the damage on your paint, maybe even wheels and your glass is caused during the wash and drying stages. Even the really bad scratches you assume were done by a careless passer by, may well have been your own doing. Following a few basic rules will vastly reduce (not totally remove) any damage caused.

 

Firstly is to not wash the car in the sunshine. Its part and parcel of car cleaning, but when the sun comes out we all want our cars to gleam! However washing in the shade or doing it early morning will vastly reduce the chances of your products/chemicals prematurely drying or curing and at best, creating annoying streaks. At worst damaging your car to the extent of needing professional repair. A black car in the shade can hold a great deal of heat, so working quick and rinsing more often as you go is advised.

 

Next is to always remember that your primary aim is to remove as much dirt and debris BEFORE your contact portion of your wash. Simply hand washing the car straight off is a huge proponent in the swirls and scratches caused. What you are doing is moving the dirt and debris around on the paint as you wash, between your wash media and the paint. This acts as any abrasive would, and leaves its own footprint. So before physically touching the car best practice is to use either a pre wash, or snow foam, to break down as much of that dirt as you can. Less is not more at this stage, use plenty of product to make sure the dirt is fully saturated. If all the grime absorbs the cleaning agents, it comes off much more easily. Apply liberally to the wheels, arches and the rest of the vehicle

After this you want to remove said cleaning agents as well as the grime. This is not a "rinse" stage. A gentle rinse wont remove the grime, you need to use the pressure washer and really take your time. Start at the bottom and move slowly, making sure you pay attention to blast out all the nooks and crannies. You are much less concerned with the odd soap bubble, and much more concerned with the dirt. 

 

Example

19990337398_709090ab4f_b.jpgP1050169 by Matt Rowe, on Flickr

 

After this go ahead and clean the wheels. Now that they have already been pre washed and blasted off its much easier to see if you need a dedicated wheel cleaner, or if soapy water will suffice. Do them one at a time ideally from start to finish, and thoroughly clean off with the PW once again. Doing it this way, if you ARE using a dedicated wheel cleaner, when rinsing the car off later on you can further rinse the wheels to be doubly sure all the chemicals are gone

 

With the wheels done, and the body prepped, its time to use your CLEAN cleaning products. This may seem obvious, but if your buckets and wash media are still dirty from last time, when water is added, you have dirty water! And this totally wastes your earlier efforts. You will want at a minimum, 2 buckets, ideally one of them clear. Half fill both with hot water, leaving the clear bucket as is, and adding your chosen shampoo to the other. Now if you use your pressure washer to top it up, this will froth up and transform the shampoo into a lovely creamy airy liquid. Just dunk the lance in to the bottom and go

 

Example

20183830241_15695b2a91_b.jpgP1050175 by Matt Rowe, on Flickr

 

Wash in straight lines, a panel at a time, ideally from the top down. (You may want to rinse periodically as you go to avoid streaking). Use only enough pressure to keep your wash media in your hand, so as little as possible. After each panel, submerge the wash media in the clear bucket, and squeeze out a few times to deposit as much of the dirt you just picked up as possible. The 2 bucket method is a very good way to keep your wash water clean. A grit guard in the buckets will help also. Using a clear bucket as the second bucket allows you to assess your pre wash routine. The dirtier the water at the end, the poorer the pre wash routine

 

Example

19313065340_8ffdb69ac0_b.jpgP1040589 by Matt Rowe, on Flickr

 

Rinsing now. And if you are smart you can use this to get a jump on the drying stage. If you rinse using an open ended hose, not your pressure wash, at about half power and you use a slow steady sheet from top to bottom, a lot of the water will run off in one long sheet leaving only droplets to pat with a drying towel. Not having to use a drying towel means even less swirls will be inflicted. Even better would to be use an inline or ro water filter set up, meaning no drying is required whatsoever. If you have a dark car, not having to dry it, and removing the chance of water spotting completely, will pay dividends long term

If you DO have to dry the car, use plush clean drying towels, apply no pressure, and wherever possible pat the car gently. If this simply wont suck up the water use the "drop and drag" method, hold the towel by two corners at one end, drape it over the panel, and draw it towards you. Turn each time and be careful 

 

Once completed, if the car is done, its done. Dress the tyres or complete any little jobs you enjoy. If you like to wipe the car down with a quick detailer or gloss enhancer, at least you are confident that the paint is debris free and this wont be be picked up. 

 

It sounds long winded, and probably looks it on paper, but when you get used to using this, or any other similar routine it really doesn't "have" to take all that long. But with this small investment in time now you are putting lots of time in the bank for later on, when you have much less polishing to do to remove the marks you inflicted. Its a fair trade, and the car stays looking better longer to boot

 

So in short, use clean tools. Avoid the sun and high temperatures before and during. Remove as much dirt as possible before you touch it. Wash in straight lines not circles to reduce the appearance of "swirls". Be smart when you rinse. Don't waste all that effort when you dry it. Simples. Adjust and arrange as you wish, but stick to the basic rules and the car will be fine

 

 

 




#71840 Sun setting on RS3

Posted by Coling on 25 March 2016 - 05:40 PM

Was up north seeing my mate who is a bit of a photographer.
Pics were taken at Nairn harbour.

25944884971_d1e15952cd_b.jpgGRAE5227.jpg by Graeme Clark, on Flickr
25738597740_93b4a7c5bc_b.jpgGRAE5231.jpg by Graeme Clark, on Flickr
25944898461_c4ba102b53_b.jpgGRAE5234.jpg by Graeme Clark, on Flickr


#31318 **Recent Threads - All Please Read**

Posted by MacD on 07 July 2015 - 05:26 PM

I've had numerous PM's regarding specifically a couple of forum users that appear to post for nothing other than provocation.

 

The forum takes time and considerable cost to run and is here for those to share advice and create a community with a common interest, it's not a platform for keyboard warriors to see how high they can p*ss up the next tree or just to massage their own ego's.

 

I'm now in a better position to view the forum more regularly than i have done over the last month so i'll be keeping an eye on whats posted.

 

Going forward if I deem posts to be nothing more than aggravating and posted purely to create reaction I will start removing accounts with NO warning, The forum doesn't need negative people creating atmosphere like a few other forums I could mention and claiming it's "banter".

 

I will over the next few days be reviewing a few highlighted posts and deleting them.

 

Don't say you weren't warned.

 

Thanks

 

Mac




#95670 Audi RS3OC Wins ADI Award

Posted by MacD on 15 October 2016 - 05:34 PM

Well a great end to RS3-Fest down at Castle Combe today, huge thanks to all that were able to get involved too.

We've won "Best Audi Event Of 2016" for this years RS3-Fest!

46 cars all lined up in colour order! So many good comments so well done all today and thanks in general to everyone that puts time and effort into posting, commenting etc on the forum.


#38657 Had this taken a few weeks ago.

Posted by Roy on 03 September 2015 - 07:22 AM

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#64377 Picked up my new RS6 Performance today!

Posted by MikeFish on 12 February 2016 - 08:00 PM

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#100076 Big Thanks to MacD

Posted by P_G on 08 December 2016 - 08:49 PM

So met up with MacD and Lady C when they were in town and they took some proper pics of my new steed. I'm well chuffed (even if MacD isn't with all of the pictures) so if you want a great job done and like me are rubbish with anything more than an iPhone camera, look no further than our own resident MacD photography.

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#101362 Merry Christmas

Posted by MacD on 23 December 2016 - 07:40 AM

Just wanted to wish you all a Merry Christmas from us all here at AudiRS3oc.com

 

Thanks for to all of you that manage to contribute positively to the forum or attend great events such as RS3-Fest as we couldn't do it without you!  :11:

 

We won our first award this year in the motoring press and it's great to see the forum finally getting a little recognition.  We've had a few ups and downs of late however we are well on the way to getting back on track.  :ph34r:

 

2017 will see the return of RS3-Fest at Castle Combe and the newest event "RS3OC Shootout" which will take place in Summer at Rockingham so stay tuned !!!!  

 

Enjoy your Christmas everyone!  :darthvader:

 

 

 




#93620 New Toy

Posted by P_G on 21 September 2016 - 09:14 PM

Unfortunately I didn't have time to take any pics having been delayed in getting to the dealership by public transport but today I picked up this;


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Big thanks to Roy for meeting up and he has a heap of photos on the car. Had the journey back home to get to grips with it and one of the immediate things..... the brakes are SO much better. Makes a good noise as well[emoji41] and to top it all off;

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It does similar mpg to the '3 and only used 2/3 of a tank from Bexley to Newcastle!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


#93125 S7 Pictures (at last)

Posted by Roy on 17 September 2016 - 03:53 PM

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#92708 RS3 8V: One step at a time

Posted by Shaunee on 14 September 2016 - 08:46 PM

ECU Remap

This is undoubtedly the key element for this development phase and where most of the time has been spent.

 

The RS3 uses the Bosch MED 17.1.x ECU family…… without going into a massive amount of detail, this ECU is one very powerful mofo.  The amount of control it can have over how the engine performs is pretty mind blowing.  The art of making the car “sing”, utilising/modifying the appropriate calibrations (there are well over 100,000 of these!) and ensuring you’re not hitting the protection tables (ultimately resulting in power being pulled down), is where the time and effort is needed.  

 

It goes without saying that even from a pure technical and in essence, logical standpoint, a properly mapped ECU should be overall, far better than a tuning box (convenience to one side).  

 

One of the plus sides of mapping the MED 17.1.x is the fact that this can be accessed fully via the OBD port.  I don’t personally know if all current tuners are using this method, I suspect they are to be honest.  The other method (as is the case with the A45) is via a method known as BDM.  The process to achieve this is commonly referred to as a “bench tune”, which effectively means the ECU is pulled out of the car and programmed.  This also makes tuning a bit of a time consuming effort, assuming you need to alter and test different calibration adjustments.  It means you program the ECU (out of the car and you normally open it up); refit; log on road/dyno; pull ECU out and make adjustments and refit/log again - repeat until you get bored!

 

Fortunately the RS3 has OBD programming access.

 

So how is the programming done - put simply a laptop with the programming software is connected to the ECU via the cars OBD port, and the new map file is written to the ECU…. all in situ.  It takes around 10 minutes to reprogram the ECU with each new map file.

 

Enough screens for you?

 

mapping.jpg

 

TEST 2 - ECU Remap and Secondary Decats

Whilst I’m reporting this as TEST 2, there was a whole process that we went through to get to this point.  This was certainly not the first map that was created (in fact it was the last one of the day), but was where we finished up at the end of this specific session.  If memory serves me correctly we created at least 7 maps, each one altering a single area to see what the effect was, then rolling up the “good” changes with the next change.  Basically taking an incremental approach.

 

Stage%201-1%20vs%20Stock.jpg

 

Summary of Spec

MY16 RS3

Litchfield Stage 1 ECU calibration

Miltek Secondary Decat Pipes

Fuel - VPower Nitro (99 oct)

 

TEST 2 figure achieved was 421.6bhp & 408.7lbft @ flywheel

Comparing this against the stock figure (which is the comparison the graph above shows) we saw the following:

+33.6 bhp +58.7 lbft (peak) over stock

+8.6% bhp +16.7% lbft (peak) over stock

 

I’ve banged on about this before (probably), but in my experience of using most makes of dynos in the UK over the years, I have always found MAHA dynos to provide quite a stingy torque figure…. Certainly in comparison to other dyno makes.  So it’s worth bearing this in mind when you compare figures.  Which is seen here with the stock figures as much as the tuned figures in my opinion.  But it is what it is.

 

TEST 2 - Comments

I certainly know I’ve said this before, but one thing that is very important in my opinion, is to not just focus on peak power figures.  You really need to look at the whole rev range and thus the whole area UNDER the curve to appreciate improvements.

 

Considering this was after the initial mapping session, and whilst the peak figures attained are good, there are higher improvements being seen in the mid range.

 

Looking at the graph you can see that whilst torque is by and large a nice increase throughout the mid range by around +60lbft, the power is seeing increases through the mid range of +50 bhp.

 

To me, for a road car, it’s about torque and mid range grunt.  

 

TEST 2 - Road

Yeah….. That’s different!

 

I’ve always thought the stock RS3 was already quick, which is in part down to it’s power delivery and smoothness.  This map just amplified the stock delivery, whilst retaining the stock characteristics.  This map almost felt too smooth though, however, smooth delivery can mean in reality a quick car!

 

The car was certainly more urgent in the mid range (increased torque) and felt like it was pulling harder at the top end.

 

Being honest I suppose I was expecting more.  Don’t know why though.  Although expectation is normally high when going through a tuning process, but let’s be honest, this map was far from finished.  So I needed to put things into perspective.

 

It felt good and quicker, but just didn’t blow my socks off.  But then will Stage 1 ever do that.  We’re all greedy aren't we!

 

The noise……

 

Initially I didn’t think there was much of a difference on the road, but when you start driving a bit more, you really do notice the bigger growl.  Because the RS3 switches the exhaust flaps dependant on throttle, it is more or less as before until you open it up….. Then it really does sounds awesome.  Something I have noticed is perhaps a very slight drone now at cruise 70-80mph.  It’s only very slight and I can’t say I noticed it before.  It’s certainly a great and cheap mod to make in my opinion.  These engines sound awesome…. These decat pipes just makes it sound that much more awesome!

 

It was agreed to carry on with the mapping development in a couple of days time.

 

TEST 3 - Revised ECU Remap and Secondary Decats

So, the second session of mapping commenced.  First off we took a Day 2 baseline run just to ensure that we were still where we left off on the previous session.  This run was within a couple of BHP of where we were at the end of Day 1 (as per TEST 2), so we were good to go.

 

Again, just to go through the process we followed…. On Day 2 we took the map (currently on the car) from the end of Day 1 and called that Stage 1 v1.  During this session we went through a similar task as the previous session, carrying on where we left off.  During this session we created 9 new maps, although the last revision didn’t make any positive difference so we reverted back to the v8 map from this session.  Litchfield’s had already created 6 new maps prior, and we created 3 additional new ones on the day (using what was learnt during this specific session).

 

We were on the dyno for around 4 hours for this session.

 

Stage%201%20v8%20vs%20Initial%20Stage%20

 

Summary of Spec

MY16 RS3

Litchfield Stage 1 ECU calibration

Miltek Secondary Decat Pipes

Fuel - VPower Nitro (99 oct)

 

TEST 3 figure achieved was 433.6bhp & 437.3lbft @ flywheel

Comparing this against TEST 2 figure (which is the comparison the graph above shows) we saw the following:

+12.0 bhp +28.6 lbft (peak) over TEST 2

+2.8% bhp +6.9% lbft (peak) over TEST 2

 

Overall Stage 1 Test 3 comparison against stock

+45.6 bhp +87.3 lbft (peak)

+11.7% bhp +24.9% lbft (peak)

 

Stage%201%20v8%20vs%20Stock_1.jpg

 

TEST 3 - Comments

Obviously at this stage all I had to go by was the dyno data (and logs), but if you appreciate what a “good” road car dyno graph can look like, this is one of them in my opinion.

 

Two things to point out initially about the graph.  One being the way the car was loaded up for this run.  This is highlighted by the initial shape of the torque and power curve up to around 2150rpm.  This isn’t a mapping issue which has caused this, this is purely because the car was not loaded on the dyno from a low enough rpm.  It’s just the way this one was run (mistake by the dyno operator).  It’s only that initial part of the run that was affected.

 

The second point (and I’m being really nit picking / anal here) is the very very slight dip (it’s probably in the region of 6lbft) in torque from 3-3800rpm.  That is also replicated in the power curve for the same rpm.  This is due to a very minor but further adjustment being needed to the boost control, as it looks like the ECU thinks it’s going to overboost just as it reaches initial peak boost, so it pulls back the boost slightly and then increases the boost again.

 

These two minor things to one side, this is such a smooth curve.  The torque is virtually flat decked throughout the mid range.  The power curve also looks so linear up to peak power, and then manages to hold that peak (virtually) through to the limiter.

 

If you compare the stock torque curve through the mid range, and even the torque curve result as part of the first mapping session, you will see that there is so much more control now in this area on this version of the map.

 

Even without getting the car on the road (which we did when we were happy with map, just to double check the logs on the black stuff), the curves alluded to a very nice driveable map.

 

As before let’s look at what increases have been seen through the mid range…..

 

In parts we’re talking +100 lbft and on average +90 lbft.  With the BHP you’re seeing +80 bhp through a large amount of the same mid range.  Those are some significant increases!

 

Due to time cracking on it was decided to call it a day….. For now.

 

For further context here is a dyno comparison of just a sample of the maps tested during this recent session.  I won’t go into boring detail but you can see differences in the runs which were the outcome of the different maps.  This was all part of the testing / learning process to end up with the final result.

 

Stage%201%20v8%20comp.jpg

 

TEST 3 - Road

Being honest I really wasn’t expecting much of a change on the road from the previous session map outcome.  Perhaps I’d just desensitised myself. Lol

 

I fully appreciate this will be so subjective, but I thought I would just share the feedback I provided back to Iain after I go home.  This is straight up and honest feedback, that was certainly never intended to be made public.  But since this is what I felt / feel, I thought I would share.  

 

It's jeffing awesome mate.  

 

I've never seen the traction control light coming on so much!!!! lol

 

I was genuinely laughing and smiling on the way home.

 

It's feels like a totally different car since Wednesday's map, which I wasn't expecting.

 

Whilst it's still very smooth and the gearbox just sucks everything up you give it, the way the power comes in (urgency and magnitude) on a low rpm pull is fantastic.  With the A45 it felt you had to properly wind it up (they are pretty much at the same peak figure level now).  With this though, it's much more responsive and instant.

 

You can feel a big improvement both in the midrange and top end since Wednesday.  It feels quite exciting when you keep your foot in, which it didn't on Wednesday.  Mid range feels very smooth.... but it feels like it's pulling so hard.

 

Top end feels like it's giving measurable improvements over Wednesday.

 

I look forward to your further map tweaks!!!! Get mashing that keyboard!!!!”

 

To be honest I’m not going to add anything else.  I could keep banging on about how it feels etc but there is little point wasting bandwidth! lol  

 

For me that’s Stage 1 done and dusted.

 

I intend to get down the quarter mile again this weekend and also carry out some VBOX logging.  As and when I get these performance measures I’ll update this thread.  It will be interesting to see where the car is in relation to my stock performance data.


Stage 2 will begin in a couple of weeks…. So expect more news on that very soon!




#58331 Daimler Dart, some have asked to see pictures of the restoration

Posted by Roy on 14 January 2016 - 07:29 PM

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This is the day I bought it car looking really run down.

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Stripping and rubbing down process.

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Down to the gel coat.

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Before the rub down.

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Who's this Mush?

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The NARDO dart!!! 

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After the spray

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Finally getting it back together.

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On the trailer waiting for a new interior, roof etc. 

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Final result

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After recent detailing job

 




#45099 RS3-Fest Castle Combe

Posted by MacD on 18 October 2015 - 08:52 PM

I'm almost half way through editing my pictures as i've been mega busy today but the rest should appear tomorrow evening all being well.

 

Here's the link:

 

https://www.facebook...71667034&type=3

 

And a few to give you an idea:

 

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#34049 Back in an RS

Posted by Uncle Fester on 31 July 2015 - 08:30 AM

Some piephone photos from collection.

 

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#87452 Roy, is this anything to do with you?

Posted by Mr_Freeze on 28 July 2016 - 08:51 PM

Seen on Facebook

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#83097 Just picked her up from a Detail...

Posted by JR-RS3 on 15 June 2016 - 01:12 PM

Chuffed to bits with my Detailing/Protection so thought i would just upload a few snaps  :11: 
Love the beading already just from drizzle, also how the Gloss is clearly visible in the light but can also look very flat and more aggressive under a cloud. 

 

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#76958 Saturday Night Photo Shoot

Posted by RS3rick on 30 April 2016 - 10:26 PM

Lovely sunset up here in Manchester, headed out armed with 1x Audi RS3, 1x IPhone 6, and some imagination. 😂🚙👌

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#67856 Another lowered RS3

Posted by MikeFish on 02 March 2016 - 07:33 PM

Finally had the H&R springs fitted after having the rear mounts and rear shocks sorted by Audi.

Plush Automotive did the honours and I recommend them to anyone else wanting theirs done.

 

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#42477 Qstuning RS3

Posted by Guest on 02 October 2015 - 10:26 AM

Hello everyone!


We are new to this forum and would like to introduce ourselves. QST are a leading Audi tuning specialist based in the South of England. We have been established in the industry for over 25 years modifying and maintaining anything from the original Quattro up to the flagship R8 and everything in between, as well as having an in house MAHA dyno where testing takes place.

We are the sole UK agent for the German tuning company MTM (Motoren-Technik-Mayer) the German tuners were one of the first to modify Audis and now over 30 years on are still top of the market in terms or both software and hardware.

So here is our newest project car, the 2015 Audi RS3 8V finished in Nardo grey. 

 

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With the car being just a day old it was driven to the workshop for its first modification to take place. H&R lowering springs as we felt that the car sat too high from the factory and that a small drop of 30mm would really set the car off giving it a more aggressive stance and really boosting the cars presence as shown by the 50/50 photo. The springs work perfectly along side the Audi magnetic ride as they simply replace the original springs. The ride had not been compromised in the slightest and the car feels as it did when it left the factory, even when driving in the firmer dynamic mode. 23b95931a028c9be8426cfe3977cfdce.jpg

Obviously it didn't stay looking this way for very long. We recently became a UK dealer for Vossen wheels, the Miami based manufacturers who specialise in producing a high end luxury wheel for those who value excellence. The flowform VFS2 was decided upon in 20x8.5 +45 with a satin bronze finish a also come with a 5 year manufactures guarantee. The new wheels once again have added furthermore aggression to the car increasing its presence both sitting still and on the move dramatically. The tyre of choice was Michelins Pilot super sport which offer great grip in both wet and dry conditions.  


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The car then made its unveiling at the Edition 38 show where the feedback was excellent and a great event by the organisers. 

 

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Once returned from the show we put the car on the Dyno where it proved to be putting out higher than stated factory figures, 385bhp & 478Nm of torque rather than 362bhp & 465Nm torque. 

 

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Shortly after the standard Dyno run we received our development MTM M-Cantronic from Germany. For those that don't know the M-Cantronic is not your conventional remap, it's a standalone tuning box which plugs directly in to the ecu using oem multiplugs. The beauty of this system is that unlike a remap or other company's tuning boxes this product is 100% warranty safe as it can simply be removed in under 2 minutes when the car goes in to Audi which is brilliant for a new Audi such as the RS3. So here are the results: Power was boosted up to 417hp and torque up to 534.4NM. Please note this product is still in development so potentially there is more power to be made. The car has been transformed by the M-Cantronic a huge amount of low down grunt coupled up with massive mid range torque transforms the RS3 in to a true weapon, takes the term hyper hatch to a new level. 

 

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This is where we are up to with the car, a full exhaust is on the cards as well as much more. Hope you enjoyed the read and please get in touch with any enquiries by either email: kim@qstuning.com or give us a call on 01444 451542 and ask for Kim. The RS3 will be at Audi Driver International on the 17th at Castle Combe for those wanting a closer look or a passenger ride.




#108246 My RS3

Posted by JayRS3 on 05 April 2017 - 07:09 AM

With the liquidation of Dellboys RS3 spares coming to a close (still few items remaining, go check it out - http://www.audirs3oc...items-for-sale/)

It's probably about time I explained what's gone on...

First and foremost I absolutely love the RS3. It's such a great car, I've had many smiles in it and enjoyed tinkering with bits to try and make it stand out that little bit more in looks and performance.

I've always wanted to go a bit OTT on a car  and considering I've had a fairly reliable RS since ownership i thought it's time to go a bit nuts now.

When you invest so much time and money into something (the Mrs springs to mind) it's worth just keeping hold of it and carrying on.

So I did...

TTE500
AP racing 6 piston big brakes [380mm front/ 355mm rear]
Goodridge front/ HEL rear brake lines
Motul RBF600 racing brake fluid
034 carbon intake
Forge FMIC
Bilstein B16 PSS10
Forge silicone hoses (charger circuit only)
Milltek turbo elbow decat downpipe
Bull X catback non res - carbon tips
HF series carbon RAM air
Uprated prop bolts
NGK spark plugs
Millers racing oil 5W40
HPFP autotech internals
Genuine A6 8.5j 20" wheels (now gone)
Genuine RS3 8V 8.5j/8J black diamond cut 19" wheels

So here's to many more smiles and years with the RS3...

MRC stage 3/ DSG map with overrun crackles [514ps/780Nm]

Check it out...
https://m.youtube.co...e&v=4w6s3gmdv1s

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Mod pictures
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